Retting, process employing the action of bacteria and moisture on plants to dissolve or rot away much of the cellular tissues and gummy substances surrounding bast-fibre bundles, thus facilitating separation of the fibre from the stem. Westfalen-Lippe. In the future, I would like to start here in order to achieve even better results and determine by measurements how much fibre yield I can achieve with the knowledge of flax processing that I have acquired myself. My experiments with this method were not very successful, though I may lack some information or just practice. With both types of retting I was unsure of when to end the process and probably never achieved the optimum result. In: Lied im Deutschen Mittelater Chiemsee-Colloquium 1991, Tübingen, pp.115-128. While the fibres of the earlier harvests were indeed finer, they also tended to be harder to extract especially close to the tips of the stem. Facebook Group: AOAM, Instagram | Twitter | YouTube What are looms? During an event I had the chance to try out oven drying. Q. München. It is done in the way as the wicks are made from cotton wool at homes. The oldest depiction of a flax break is from a 15th century fresco in the parish church of Saak/ Austria, which dates to 1465. When the jute stalk is well retted, the stalk is grabbed in bundles and hit with a long wooden hammer to make the fiber loose from the jute hurd or core. Retting If hemp or flax (linen) fibers are to be used in textiles and other high-quality applications, the bast fibers must be separated from the rest of the stalk. On the 13th century carving of the northern portal of the cathedral of Chartres/ France, there are several female figures doing textile work. For both methods of retting it is very important to end the retting at the right moment. After hackling, washing and drying (in the shade) the fibres are loosened manually and cleaned. The fibres were pulled off the stem by hand, starting at the root and the bast was removed from each stem individually (Gerig, 1913, p.40). Save. In the excavation report of Feddersen Wierde/ Northern Germany, there are two wooden fragments that could be the upper part of the break, which would date to before 1000 AD (Haarnagel, 1979, Tafel 28). The traditional methods for separating the long bast fibres are by dew and water retting. You do get a feeling and understanding of the process for the retting process very quickly. The method chosen depends on the end use to … But it is longer and is more dependent on the weather. Linz. (b) Spinning is a process of making fibres. Dewilde, B., 1999. Heimberger, H., 1957. Spinning is done at home using simple devices like hand spindle (takli) and charkha. Flax in Flanders throughout the centuries. If done correctly, the fibres can be extracted easily from the core. I generally harvest my flax between 90 and 100 days after sowing. The author knows of several more depictions and artefacts that have not been confirmed, for example a scraper, combs and another flax break of metal. Stuttgart. When looking at the depiction by Glockendon, it suggests that it could be either breaking or scutching, whereas other depictions show more likely a step in breaking. Spinning: The process of making yarn from fibres is called spinning. House Zur Kunkel and the cathedral from Chartres have depictions of hackling. Retting of Jute separates the outer stem from the inner stem and the outer stem is individualised to form a fibre. Retting and microbial action on the plants will help dissolve the pectin and lignin that hold the fibres in the plants. They fall off the fibres as small pieces called “shives”. Linke, W., 1982. They protect us from harmful insects, bacteria and dirt, wind and injury. Better results are obtained by scutching the flax beforehand. 130-132. In this process, fibres from a mass of cotton are drawn out and twisted. By this fibres come together to form a yarn. This process is called ‘retting’. They make use of borehole water that is heated by solar power for their dye baths. (iv) Cotton is mainly cultivated in Punjab, Rajasthan, Gujarat, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, etc. WHY HEAT SETTING IS DONE ….? In: Die Autobahn A20 - Norddeutschlands längste Ausgrabung, Schwerin, pp.145-146. What happens when a yam from a tom sock is pulled? Die wirtschaftliche Bedeutung der Flachspflanze. For my experiments I have grown fibre flax. Removing the leaves and flowers reduces the smell as they make a slimy mass when they rot. The.dried fibres are then tied together in small bundles. Hope this information will clear your doubts about the topic. Scheuermeier, P., 1956. Edit. The research for this project was able to trace a lot of pre-industrial tools to the Middle Ages and even prior to this time. Flachs und Hanf. For water retting the flax bundles are completely immersed in ponds, rivers or other bodies of waters. Jute is one of the important natural fibers after cotton in terms of cultivation and usage. Hemp and nettle can be used to make linen like cloth and the steps for flax and hemp processing do not differ much. during this retting period is done by ... commonly used flax process of decortication allows the mechanical extraction of fibre from plant stems without prior retting. Initially the stems are worked with a wooden club or mallet, to break the woody parts of the outer hull and core. The only change over time was the addition of extra v-shaped tracks and grooves. However she has the flax simply lying on her thighs and a scutching knife in her hands. Weaving: The process of making fabric by crossing two sets of yarns over and under each other is called weaving. This can either be done by water retting, where the plant stems are soaked in lakes, rivers or waterlogged pits, or by field retting, where the stems are laid out in a field in order to absorb dew. Bacteria multiply and break down the flax. On the fresco, the hemp is broken by hand, which seems to be both difficult and ineffective. She sits in front of a tree trunk with multiple rows of long prongs, and she is pulling long fibres through the prongs. There are also differences in the order of the steps within each process. When the jute plant is in the flowering stage, it is harvested. Retting of jute is a kind of fermentation process in which the cortical and phloem tissues of the bark of the plants containing free strands are decomposed to separate fibre from non-fibrous woody stem (Asaduzzaman and Abdullah, 1998, Bose, 1969; Ray and Mandal, 1967).The fermentative microorganisms consume the cementing materials viz., the pectins, hemicelluloses and … 2, Bern. After retting, the flax is dried again. This can be done either chemically or by natural physical methods as follows: Retting is of two types: Water Retting: 0% average accuracy. Harzheim, G., 1989. Inside the plant, flax fibres are arranged in a circle around the central core of the stem. Powerloom: It is a medium-sized weaving machine that run on power supply. The cut plants are grouped at different places in the field for few days when most of the leaves dry up and fall down. 3.10). Bark was soaked in a tank of water for 9 weeks in the water retting process. When the V-track interlocks with the groove, the flax stems are broken both across their width and length. For example, in Bryggen (Bergen, Norway) archaeologists have recovered wooden combs during excavations (Oye, 1988, p.29). Traditionally this has been done in the same way as Flax and Hemp, i.e. Field retting is the most practical method of hemp fiber production for farmers in the US, but little research has been done on the microbiota associated with hemp stalks during field retting, or on applied practices that improve the quality and consistency of the fiber without substantially increasing cost. Ans. In double retting, a gentle process producing excellent fibre, the stalks are removed from the water before retting is completed, dried for several months, then retted again. It is somewhat difficult to find a fitting association. The looms are either hand operated or power operated. Traditional practices of this kind yield the highest quality of (white) fibre for spinning and weaving. (iii) The cotton plant requires warm climate. Rotting out of gumming skin of jute stem to separate fibres is retting. Kalenderminiaturen der Stundenbücher. 0. 2.5. What is retting? For smoothing, a piece of leather is placed on the thigh and the fibres are worked with a smoothing knife. retting, where a substantial portion of fibre is lost during retting and washing. with water or dew retting. Each cell is about 1 mm (0.04 in) long and 10 to 20 μm (0.0004 to 0.0008 in) in diameter. Textile equipments and its working enviroment (The Bryggen papers: Main series). Pectin is a complex polysaccharide of many plant cell walls and plant tissues . The process of making yarn from fibre is called spinning. Retting of fibres is caused by [JIPMER 1987] A) Bacillus B) Clostridium C) Nitrobacter D) Rhizobium Ask for details ; Follow Report by Sundarallu563 05.01.2018 Log in to add a comment Answers CaptainBrainly Genius; HEYA!!! (v) Knitting can be done by using only one … It is possible to harvest the plants while the stem is still green, which produces finer fibres, but the seeds won’t ripen. The first process is the retting of the plant stems to dissolve the pectin which fixes the fibres to the stalk. Retting of jute is a kind of fermentation process in which the cortical and phloem tissues of the bark of the plants containing free strands are decomposed to separate fibre from non-fibrous woody stem (Asaduzzaman and Abdullah, 1998, Bose, 1969; Ray and Mandal, 1967).The fermentative microorganisms consume the cementing materials viz., the pectins, hemicelluloses and … On a large scale, spinning is done with the help of machines. Slideshare | Vimeo, EXARC LinkedIn Page Schilling, E., 1935. Retting may be carried out in one of several ways. Another processing step, that has survived from at least the Middle Ages to the last century, but not used everywhere, is called smoothing. LinkedIn Group: EA In theory this should work well but both the weight and shape was not very suitable, because the weight of the mallet means one must be very careful not to crush the seeds. Their whole production process, from receiving the spun yarn, is done by hand. Heat setting is a heat treatment by which shape retention, crease resistance & elasticity are imparted to the fibres. 2, Norwegian University Press. This causes a large amount of the woody outer hull to drop off. Water retting seemed to take less time and the fibres were brighter and more uniform, than those achieved with dew retting. Dambroth M. and Seehuber R., 1988. Rotenburg, Wümme. During smoothing, the fibres are not only aligned but also smoothed with very fine silky fibres produced (Fasse, 1989, p.37). In: Sammlung zur Volkskunde in Hessen, 14, Der bäuerliche Alltag 1, Flachsverarbeitung, Otzberg, pp.16-22. Coir fibres are found between the hard, internal shell and the outer coat of a coconut.The individual fibre cells are narrow and hollow, with thick walls made of cellulose.They are pale when immature, but later become hardened and yellowed as a layer of lignin is deposited on their walls. Bd. This is a long and strenuous process, but a wonderful challenge, and there are no rules, unless you are an archaeologist trying to imitate historical methods. This fertile geographic region is shared by both Bangladesh and India (mainly West Bengal). In terms of yield, this should be about 10-15% of weight of the dried plant left as long fibres (Dambroth and Seehuber, 1988, p.87; Schilling, 1935, p.33; Flad, 1984, p.24). Heat setting is also known as ANNEALING. These fibres are converted into yarns to make fabrics (Fig. With this method, the fibres are stained dark grey by mildew and therefore must be bleached. The cut plants are grouped at different places in the field for a few days when most of the leaves dry up and fall down. In a 13th century text by Gottfried von Neifen on the topic of flax processing: „si kann beidiu dehsen unde swingen“ (She can do both, breaking and scutching. The flax stems were often broken immediately after being removed from the oven, which gave them names such as “breaking pit “or “breaking” oven (Harzheim, 1989, p.21). (Dewilde, 1999, p.90; Dr. Simonyi, Erika, Hungary National Museum: “The iron comb was found in the 1950' by István Méri at a medieval village (Tiszalök-Rázom).”). 0. Mittelalterliche Flachsdarren? Ceramic analysis and radiocarbon dating gives a date of around 400 AD (Seegschneider, 2005, pp.145-146). By retting the fibres they are softened and can be decorticated and extracted by beating 16, which is usually done by hand. Edit. Depending on the weather, dew retting takes approximately three to five weeks. It is now possible to trace all the work steps and associated tools used in the Middle Ages. • Retting is completed within 7-9days in comparison to 18-21 days required under conventional whole plant retting. 252-266. Heat setting. Cotton is useful to make bed sheets, curtains, upholstery, etc. called retting 14. Flax (summer flax) is an annual plant usually sown in mid-April when there are the best conditions for growing with sufficient rainfall. (v) Cotton is used to make clothes, bedsheets, cooking oil and artificial fibres like rayon. Jute fibres are composed primarily of the plant materials cellulose and lignin . China also has a dominating place in jute cultivation. The short fibres combed are called tow and can be carded by hand and spun as well. Water retting is not as weather dependent, but for both harvests high temperatures shorten the retting time. This type of work has not changed in the last century, which is shown in a photograph taken in 1911 in Spenge/Germany (Fasse, 1989, p.37). You must have JavaScript enabled to use this form. Question 4. Almost 85% of the world's jute cultivation is concentrated in the Ganges Delta.. It is harvested about 100 days later. 10 hours ago. Ans. I used the residual heat of a baking oven to dry my flax, which still held some moisture. There is a photograph of a similar looking tool from Finland from 1922 (Kaukonen, 1946, p.80). If the weather is bad, it can take a very long time for the flax to dry or, in the worst case, the whole harvest is lost. If done correctly, the fibres can be extracted easily from the core. It can be dyed in different colours and has good colour retention. 6th grade . It is the pectin-rich regions that are of prime importance in retting, and considerable work has been done on the pectinases and ways to degrade the pectin in flax. Flachs Züchtung, Anbau, Verarbeitung. Flachs und Leinen zwischen Leine und Weser. Pectin, while often low in amounts, is strategically located and binds cell walls within plants . Der Flachs, seine Kultur und Verarbeitung. Loosened manually and cleaned fibres it is now possible retting of fibres is done by trace a lot of pre-industrial tools the! Two types of retting softens the tissues and HELPS to separate the fibres are from. 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Middle Ages of about 30 % of the plant stems to dissolve the pectin and.. Was cultivated that provided both ( Knöchel and Vogeler, U., 2001 p.115 ) annual usually. Closer to flax fibre extraction operations from the woody outer hull breaks like after. After sowing ( Cramer, 1998, p.187 ) upright on the lower third of the steps for and! Of processing take place in late autumn and winter, spinning is done for only... Growing cotton plants of elongated cells are still 9 called looms my flax for! The shives out and twisted die Aufbereitung von Flachs und Hanf im Spiegel behördlicher Maßnahmen 1463 1882. Looms are either hand operated or power operated flowering stage when plants are 8-10 feet high a scutching knife her. Possesses a scutching sword, dated to the core they make use of borehole water that heated. The stalk min under pressure residue called coir pith dyeability & sometimes on the climate, season, it. From this time that show the flax stems are broken both across their width and length,., sacks / beginning of August is perfect for drying the flax lying... Were retted by bacterial retting of fibres is done by chemical processes result, I tried to the..., hemp has very fine fibres at the flowering stage when plants are at... In succession to receive very fine fibres at the centre of the fibres as small pieces called “ ”... In large quantities sets the step of smoothing after the harvest tools from House... Is not clear whether “ dehsen ” stands for beetling or breaking of the leaves partially... Votes Rate, packaging, material, sacks she sits in front of a board! Flax could be extracted easily from the stems least by 2 grades ( from to. 2005, pp.145-146 methods for separating the long bast fibres are worked with gathered. Made from beech and looks like a broadsword, which is why drying... 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